An Ode to One of My Favorite Things (and some mention of the street varietal as well)

Coffee. Where would I be without it?

It is posited that coffee was first discovered by Ethiopian goats, and only later adopted by humans. Since then, we humans have continually flip-flopped with our opinions on the delectable drink. In 1675, a king of England allegedly banned coffee houses as he believed the stimulating substance was causing (the) hoi polloi to plot against him. Soon thereafter, coffee was even scorned as the ‘devil’s drink’ by a 17^th century Pope. Lucky for us, he then decided to baptize the beans, enabling even the most sinful of laymen to drink the stuff.

Today, we’ve thankfully gotten past all this nonsense, and have come to love and to cherish coffee. So much, in fact, that some people are willing to pay three thousand US dollars for one pound of la crème de la crème. This audaciously expensive varietal is called Kopi Luwak. Farmed in Indonesia, the Philippines and East Timor, what makes it so special, so coveted, is that every bean has to make its journey through a small mammal’s intestine before being defecated and then lightly roasted. Sounds delicious indeed.

The paradox here in Peru is that while we continue to produce outstanding beans, we consume a disgusting amount of instant coffee (which, by the way, was invented by a Belgian man named George Washington). Peruvian street coffee leaves much to be desired: weak in flavor, unpalatably sweet, and served scalding in metallic cups that are sure to burn your fingertips. However, at four in the morning, it manages to do the trick.

How I long for the days of Front Range independent coffee shops, crowded with pompous, mediocre art, and their modishly aloof creators. Ok, so maybe I don’t quite miss the hipsters. But the coffee… oh, the coffee.

Breakfast Burritos

Jeremy's specialty is breakfast food and he makes some mean breakfast burritos. He agreed to let me take photos of him making them one morning.  However, he declined to write about them or how he learned to make them.  As far as I can gather, it's a combination of his Texan pride and love for bacon and eggs.

Jeremy

Being from Texas, he's quite picky about the ingredients.  Not just any tortillas will do.  He prefers the flour tortillas made fresh at Brooklyn Fare.  Similarly,  uses spicy chorizo AND bacon, a combination of oaxaca and cheddar cheeses, potatoes, and a green tomatillo sauce - in recent days he's been into the Xochitl brand.

 

He loves the cast iron skillet and will use it to cook the entire meal, starting with the bacon.  Once the bacon is nice and crispy he removes it and adds the potatoes to the pan, browning them and pushing them to the side as the chorizo is cooked.  Finally, the eggs are added along with the cheese.

The eggs cook fast.  Right before he removes them from the heat, he adds a spoonful or two of the tomatillo sauce. Wrapped in the tortillas, with a glass of OJ and a cup of coffee, it's a pretty great breakfast.

An Introduction to Bianca, Street Food & Maize

Bianca: An introduction

I am the younger, less crafty, yet more spontaneous (read: explosive) sister of Paloma, El Ayllu’s innovator. Also, in some way, since El Ayllu is a reference to an ancient Peruvian social structure, I am her right man, her ally behind enemy lines. Ok, that may be a bit of an exaggeration. Peru isn’t so much the enemy as it is our origin. Today, as two confused Peruvian-Americans, Paloma continues to recreate Peruvian dishes in the grand metropolis of New York City, while I try as best I can to recount the culinary happenings from the living Inca city of Ollantaytambo.

I love food, and though I have a naturally discriminatory palette, I have never had any due success in the kitchen. But the kitchen is a warm and inviting place, and I’ve always relished my role as Paloma’s sous chef. As such, I’ll leave the cooking to Paloma, and concentrate on what I know best. So, what do I know best? I love coffee, I’ve often claimed that I could survive off of any combination of rice and fish, and while currently living in Peru, I survive solely on street food.

I wanted for my contribution to be witty and whimsical, something that would highlight the immorality and desire that lies behind food and drink. Maybe something along the lines of ‘coffee & cigarettes’ (thank you Jarmusch). Alas, I am trying to quit smoking, and though I have a penchant for coffee, my ulcer and doctors would advise otherwise. So, street food it is: the very staples that keep me alive and functioning as an eccentric vagabond.

Street Food: Maize (Part I)

Maize, or corn as you English speakers will more surely comprehend, is the most widely grown crop in the Americas. In fact, humans worldwide produce more maize than rice and wheat in any given year. Currently the top culprits are the United States, China and Brazil, with other nations such as South Africa and Romania vying for spots in the top ten.

In my numbered years, I’ve seen corn used as food, alcohol, synthetic fibers, plastics, medicines, decorative centerpieces, backgrounds for bone chilling thrillers, and more recently, I have even seen corn utilized as Halloween costume. Apparently, corn always has an even number of rows on each ear. Thrilling.

Maize is indigenous to Mesoamerica, and is still used widely throughout the New World. In Peru, it is an invaluable staple of the highland diet, and I’m quite pleased to announce that corn season, after a brief stint, is back. Peruvian street corn dishes are endless; nonetheless, I’ve picked out a select few for you to contemplate.

Tamales

Often, I wish I lived in a larger town with greater street food alternatives and availability. Tamales, both sweet and salty, are one of those things I crave daily and search for vehemently within Ollantaytambo’s lackluster plaza de armas. When the tamale lady is there, poised to take my money, it’s a good day.

Made of a corn, egg, milk and butter dough, then wrapped back into the corn husks to be steamed til perfection, tamales are fairly easy to make yet hard to master. They can be served as a main dish, dessert, accompaniment, and can include raisins, cinnamon, beef, vegetables, virtually anything.

Chicha

Chicha: Peruvians very own home brew. A fermented corn beverage, slightly milky in color, slightly bitter in flavor and sometimes crafted with strawberries for special occasions, chicha is consumed daily by many individuals to provide the energy needed to continue their arduous work on fields and construction sites. Every time I enter a chicheria, I am reminded by the owners and patrons that chicha is better for you than beer, and that it doesn’t contain any or much alcohol. Great! I find, however, that the overwhelming feel of bodily intoxication might argue otherwise. Nevertheless, despite vacationers’ fears that it will inevitably cause travelers’ diarrhea, or worse, this individual thinks that it makes for a healthy alternative to the more frequented pisco sours and Cusqueñas.

Contrary to popular belief, the process of making chicha does not involve repeatedly chewing and spitting out corn in order to promote fermentation. Instead, it is brewed through an ever so simple and shockingly sterile process of boiling and reboiling. Although lacking in popularity in the northern Americas, Dogfish Head brewery did once make an attempt at chicha beer with limited success. Apparently they’ve made some modifications and had a go at it again in 2010 (Dogfish Head chicha). If you ever get a chance to try the real thing, please do. But if you can’t get to Peru, then at least get yourself to Delaware and try some of Dogfish Head’s concoction.

Choclo con queso

Unlike the yellow corn of the northern Americas, the corn here is drastically larger in size and only mildly sweet. A slab of salty cheese makes for an obvious and stellar accompaniment.

Despite numerous individuals’ claims that corn provides little to no nutritional value, choclo con queso currently reigns supreme in my current street food diet. A delectable cob of corn served up with a slice of cheese goes for approximately 72 US cents. And my mom still wonders how I could possible live off of so little a day.

Seco de Cordero (Lamb Stew)

Seco de cordero is the Peruvian version of a lamb stew.  Cooked with heaps of cilantro, aji, lime and beer, it's one of the quintessential Peruvian meals.  It also happens to be a great lamb dish for those who don't generally like lamb.

And that would be me. I want to love lamb and I keep buying different cuts and testing different cooking methods.  But it is all to no avail. I can only eat lamb in two ways: Grilled and crispy with some charred bits (i.e. cooked beyond recognition) or in a stew.

I found this recipe on the Yanuq website.  Their recipes can be tricky - the measurements are not clear and it's my belief that they intentionally leave out "secret" ingredients.  I made this recipe 3 times before I felt it worked well. However, it's a pretty close match to the real thing and I definitely recommend it to anyone interested in Peruvian cuisine.

For the full recipe, click here.

My tweaked version of this recipe has me using way more cilantro and not being quite as particular about how finely it's ground before adding it to the pot.  I also do not pre-boil the potatoes, as I think cooking them in the stew itself adds both thickness and flavor.  I use both carrots and peas and, instead of aji, I'll dice up 1/4-1/3 of a habanero.

The Yanuq recipe does not say how long the meat should be cooked.   As with any good stew the key is patience. I let it simmer, under (very) low heat, for 2 hours.

I then serve it with rice, some encebollado, and a chilled beer. The aromas this dish gives off  throughout the cooking process are amazing.  And it always reminds me of Peru.  Perhaps that's why I enjoy eating this stewed lamb - purely for the sake of nostalgia.

Mom's Chocolate Cake a.k.a Caca de Foca

My mom has a ridiculous sweet tooth.  It must be due to that bizarre cultural mix of her's: being both English and Peruvian.  Naturally, she excels at baking and making desserts. Her most popular recipe is chocolate cake: a combination brownie, fudge extravaganza. The cake was jokingly nicknamed Caca de Foca (Seal's Shit) by my sister's godfather, Chanchi.  It's a joke - of course - since the cake is phenomenal.  But, it does a fairly good job at describing it.

Mom and Dad

So, here's the recipe in her words:

1 cup granulated sugar, 2 eggs......beat until light yellow and frothy. Add 1/2 teaspoon vanilla...beat. In saucepan over low heat melt 200 grms butter, add 2 tablespoons cocoa and cool. When cool, add to first mixture of eggs....mix. Then add 1/2 cup sifted flour, 1/2 teaspoon baking powder, 1/2 teaspoon baking soda, pinch of salt and mix lightly. (This is half the recipe, by the way...double ingredients if wish to make full recipe). Then add 1/4 c chopped nuts....lightly. Add mixture into a buttered pan covered with parchment paper and buttered again.  Cover pan and mixture with buttered parchment paper on top.

Oven should be preheated  and temperature for baking set at about 350 degrees F for about 20 mins to half hour....but kinda depends on your oven.  So, do test first to find what is your ideal cooking time and temp.

Topping - for 1/2 recipe again - is:

In saucepan melt 2 tablespoons butter with 3 tablespoons of cocoa and pinch of salt...when as paste add 1 in leche condensada and over low fire stir and cook until creamy and thick consistency...again consistency is up to you time wise.  Then mix in 1/4 cup chopped nuts. Whilst cake and topping still warm/hot, pour it on top of cake.  On top and in between if you do full recipe.  Then decorate with nuts on top...et, voila....enjoy. But recommend you try it first....cause all of this is from memory...basically....hope it comes out as a turron de chocolate....if not, then u will have to experiment a little with the quantity or proportions of the ingredients.

So, this was an experiment. I followed the recipe, to the tee using a combination of nuts (hazelnuts,  brazil nuts, walnuts, almonds and pecans).  I also decided to mix 1 t of cayenne into the chocolate fudge sauce. I cooked it down for about 30 minutes, at which point it reached a consistency I was happy with. And considering that my oven is whack and only has two settings (on and off), I'm pretty impressed I pulled it off.

The cake did fall in the middle, which I was a bit upset about - you'd think after 3 years experience working in a French bakery I'd have that down.  Either way, it tasted great and the final product lived up to its expectations. I'm betting you can see how the cake got its nickname.

Chickpea and Date Masala with Coconut Kale

I've always thought that cooking was very similar to painting.  As an artist, I have a set of materials and techniques that I know how to use and manipulate in order to get a desired effect.  This means understanding all their nuances, how far I can push them, and which materials are best suited to particular techniques.

Anyone who cooks has their set of tools and techniques:  A series of ingredients and cooking methods one is comfortable working with and knowledgeable enough in them to experiment and make things up as one goes along. It's a comfortable safety zone that allows for creativity - because at the end of the day if we mess up - unlike a painting that can be thrown away or painted over - we still have to eat it.

My comfort zone does not extend to any kind of Asian cuisine.  And if you take away the meat component, I tend to feel lost in the kitchen.  So, I took it as a challenge that for Saturday's meal I had to make a strictly veggie dinner for our guests, Grollis.  My inspiration was this rather cheeky article in the Times.

The entree was a chickpea and date masala served over a bed of coconut kale and with a side of cardamom infused rice.  This gave me the welcomed excuse to go shopping for spices. Ideally, I would have gone up to Jackson Heights.  But in order to save time (but not necessarily money - $36 a pound for cardamom!) I was able to find everything at Sahadi's. 

I decided that I wanted to use fresh, raw chickpeas (not canned).  I soaked them overnight, simmered them for an hour and then cooked them with onions, garlic, tomato paste and the dates.  The masala this recipe called for was made out of cardamom, cumin, cayenne and star anise.

The kale was marinated for 4 hours in coconut milk, cayenne, salt and fresh lemon juice.  The recipe originally called for the the kale to be grilled, but being mid November, I opted to use the cast iron skillet instead.

I almost broke down and served some seared lamb chops.  But, instead I told myself the meal would suffice with a light appetizer (which it did). I decided to make use of the ingredients in the fridge and made tomato and basil bruschetta paired with a celery, feta and date salad.

The final dish was a success (Jeremy, the bona fide meat lover, declared it the best vegetarian meal he's ever had), and Grollis were thoroughly impressed (I now owe Hollis the recipe, as promised). I can not describe how perfectly the chickpeas complemented the kale.  You'll just have to try it.

We paired the meal with a Six Point IPA growler and a jammy, but light red wine - Toro Olivara - from Donna de Vine in Brooklyn.  For the full recipes click here and here.

Grollis brought a lovely rum apple cake which we complemented with alternating sips of whiskey and fresh Asam tea (courtesy of Jackie via London).  Good times.

Black Beans

Frijoles negros. Any kid living in Latin America will eat a lot of these, often, and as a side with almost any meal. And I hated them. Nowadays I'm a convert. I always have a pot of black beans either soaking, simmering, or ready for use in the fridge. It takes a little forethought - what with the soaking over night - but it's certainly worth the extra time.

Between work and the studio, it can be difficult to set aside the time to cook. Frijoles are one of those staples that I have ready to go in case I'm too tired, too busy or just plain lazy. I use them to make a great dinner out of the odds and ends sitting in the kitchen: Nachos, quesadillas, soups, or - my favorite -  served with rice and two fried eggs, sunny-side up.

I got this recipe from the health column of the New York Times. Although I've tweaked it here and there (more garlic, fresh lime juice, extra salt) the drill is basically the same. For the full recipe,  click here.

 

Dinner at Em's

Last night some old friends got together to celebrate the new season. Our host, Emily G, decided to choose ingredients appropriate for the time of the year: cabbage, squash and pork were the inspiration for her meal.

The pork was rubbed with a mixture of garlic, rosemary, thyme and butter and then roasted over a bed of onions and carrots.

The cabbage was cooked with onions, caraway seeds, vinegar and vegetable stock.  The butternut squash was caramelized with brown sugar. Green beans were steamed and served on the side. The pork was excellent, which is why it gets all the face time on this post. Perfectly cooked, it was juicy and full of flavor.

And because no meal at Emily's house is complete without dessert, she served vanilla and chocolate hazelnut ice cream with espresso and Bailey's drizzled on top. To Nat's delight, we ended up with some lovely ice cream soup.